I started up my MH 20 tractor recently only to find that it was not charging.  I had rewired it several years ago and all was then well.  So I started to check through the system - dynamo serviced etc but could not get it to charge.

I removed the bonnet (hood!) to get at the back of the dashboard as I was suspicious of the ammeter.  Indeed that had given up but a new one still did not resolve the problem.  It was quite difficult getting one's hands behind the dashboard to do this.  The I spotted that there was a fuse on the back of the charging control three position switch.  I wanted to get this out to check it but it is nigh on impossible to get ones hand to it without removing the dashboard.  I did eventually adopt a four hand approach with a friend and we eventually managed to extract it.  If the engineers had just provided another 1-2 inches of clearance between the petrol tank and the dashboard it would have been a simple operation.

The fuse was OK but whilst we had it out I just ran a file (with difficulty!!!) between the fuse clamps, replaced the fuse and hey presto it charged again and the three position switch worked perfectly after all those years.  I doubt the fuse had been out since it was new!

John

One for Joe!!

I decided to re-time the magneto to the engine on my MH 12-20 this afternoon.  It could occasionally kick.  So I looked in the operators manual which tells you to seek out the timing mark on the bottom flat belt pulley.  I've re-timed other U frames and always found the timing marks.

However there are no marks whatsoever on the MH 12-20.  So I then looked for them on my Wallis 12-20 and it's just the same.

So Joe - what's the best way to time them without the marks?  Get No 1 piston up to TDC  and mark the pulley at a mid point between the sides of the U frame?????

Oh - and another job for you Joe - the reply buttons on this thread are in short supply................................

Thanks
john

Speaking of design "faults" (or at least not very clever).  I had the need to put new rear-end oil in my 33 DR.  Very difficult to pour anything into the fill plug tucked under the dash.  What I really needed was a flexible funnel with high capacity.  I had to settle for a long, straight plastic funnel that required Dakota to hold it while I poured slowly from the 5 gallon bucket.  With 80w-90 oil, it took a while and made a bit of a mess.

You would think they could have added a much more accessible fill location!!

Cheers,

JB

All Wallis mechanics.
      Can anyone out there give me any advice on setting up the Pickering governors on my 20/30?. How much tension do I need to put on the external spring on the throttle rod, which notch do I set on the internal spring adjuster and what on earth does the vernier adjuster  on the outside of the governor cross shaft do?. mine seems to make very little difference. I have started off with the throttle lever 2 notches from closed which pushes the linkage forward to close the butterfly in the carb. Any help from you magicians on your side of the Pond will be very much appreciated. Come in Jo!!
                                                     
                                                             Jack.