Alan.
      Most car/truck clutches run dry and the last thing you need is an oily clutch.The  M-H/Wallis clutches run in oil and rely on it for longevity. On which side is your ball bearing shielded?. I certainly wouldn't recommend leaving the restricter out of the crank but it depends how good a fit your set screw is, if it lets a small amount of oil past then I wouldn't worry about it but if it's a 100% good fit then I would be less happy. It's not my place to tell you what to do with your own machinery as you are obviously experienced in these matters, I am merely giving my amateur opinion.
                                         Jack.

Jack,

    Many thanks for your reply, I am very much an amateur at this.   You prompted  me to go and re-read the manuals more carefully.  

The early Wallis 20-30 manual states “The rear main bearing has a lead through which the oil passes to the ball bearing on the end of the drive shaft and located inside the flywheel and then down along the side of the wall of the clutch chamber and when it has filled this chamber up to the bottom of the flywheel, it is picked up and returned to the crankcase.”

So, you are correct, some leakage past the plug is intentional and not just to lubricate the throwout bearing.

It bothers me that the fit between the drilled hole in the crankshaft and the plug isn’t defined in any way, especially as I can’t now find that plug on my workbench. Anyway, seems I should remove that setscrew and replace with a plug.  Also probably don’t need any shield on the throwout bearing.  Any thoughts?  Interestingly the old throwout bearing I removed from the tractor was shielded on both sides, but who knows when that was installed.

 

Also while we are on the subject is the clutch facing material any different between a dry clutch and a wet clutch and if so where does one get it?

 

Alan Painter  Brownsville, Oregon

Alan.
      Yes, I would definitely replace the setscrew with the original restricter. I can't be any help as to the correct diameter of this, perhaps Joe or someone on your side of the pond would be more helpful, it just wants to be a sloppy fit enough to leak enough oil without affecting the main oil pressure.Have another search for the restricter in your workshop, it is easily overlooked.  As for the pilot bearing, it doesn't need any shielding, you can usually lever them out with a screwdriver or something sharp. Your clutch is most likely made by the Twin Disc Clutch Company who I believe are still extant and still making clutches but for different applications, certain parts are still obtainable,I'm told, there again I'm sure someone nearer home can advise on this. As for the material for the actual disc I have never had to replace any of mine so can't be of any assistance I'm afraid. A general SOS to the other members of the MCA should produce some result!

                                                                    Good Hunting!   Jack.

Jack,
Many thanks for your reply.  I do appreciate your taking the time to correspond with me.  Best wishes,  Alan Painter.
 

So lift the front of the motor first and slide it forward before lifting the transmission part or lift tougher all at once?   What kind of rigging did you guys use? I can make a lift bar for the front part but looks like chain attach will have to do with the transmission end where it mates rear end
 

jeffk
    Lift the whole lot,engine and gearbox together. Remove the Cyl. head (already done in your case). Make up an angle iron bracket to cover at least two head studs to spread the load and with a shackle attached to the angle iron use two chains or straps  on the crane, one to lift the front via the shackle and the second to  take the weight of the g/box (attached to the gearbox gate casting) to lift the gearbox after the engine has come up sufficiently to clear the front baffle. You may need to put a lever between the rear of the gearbox and  the final drive casting and hotch it forward to clear the gears. As I said before, be careful of the oil pickup gear and oil pump when setting the lump down. This all sounds a bit complicated but a good dose of common sense will make it clearer. Incidently, the angle bracket wants to be bolted onto the cyl. block about at No. 2 cylinder. I hope all this will be of some use to you, Just take your time about it.  Good Luck.
                                                 Jack..

Thanks 

I should have been more specific. I guess what I'm asking is, to break it loose (trans from rear end) should I first pick up on the front of the motor ( which is hooked to the trans), or lift on both ends  simultaneously at once till it comes?

thanks again!

jeff

Jeffk.
     No, you have to lift the front end first until it's high enough to clear the front baffle of the 'U' frame, about 7 inches or so, by then the rear chain/strap should start taking the weight of the G/box and lifting the whole unit out at a slope. At that stage you should have enough space to lever the whole lump forward an inch or so by putting a tyre lever or something similar in the subsequent gap at the rear end of the g/box, this is to seperate the pinion gears from the crown wheels. The whole lump weighs a fair bit so make sure the lifting gear is strong enough. When it's clear of the chassis roll the tractor back rather than manoevering the lump forward, then you can lower it (the lump) slowly to rest it on it's side or in a prepared frame but DO keep any weight off the oil pump and oil pickup gear .Only then can you seperate the g/box from the engine.
        Again, Good Luck,

Perfect, exactly  what I was looking for!

Thanks so much Jack. 

Hello Jack,  I would like to mention there has been a reproduced pictures of the J I Case Plow Works Factory at Racine, on e-Bay for sale.  One of these pictures shows employees placing engine/ transmissions into the frames of Cub Jrs. Using overhead hoists and a eye bolt placed properly screwed into the Block.  When I first saw this I knew they had the right idea.  Maybe someone who purchased the picture, and other photos could share this with you all.  Happy Trails,   Tim Pace