I briefly searched this forum for wisdom, but not sure I found any answers to my question(s). So here I go........
I have my grandfather's 1935 MH GP that came to me from my father. As I am new to this I am trying to recover from the results of some well-intentioned maintenance.
The tractor has retread rubber on the steel wheels, which have been oil soaked over time from oil leaking through the felt seals and degraded. Lost one of the retreads and now in the process of reinstalling a new one. So, here are my quandaries.....
I had filled the rear end with 85-90 wt. oil, which didn’t stay there long. It moved to the bull-wheel housings only to add to the problem by overfilling the housings that had probably 90-ish weight oil in them.
Knowing that both the rear end and the bull-wheel housings have felt seals that inherently leak light oils, I am intending to change lubricants to hopefully to eliminate or at least reduce this problem. I have researched somewhat and am considering using a NLGI 00 grease in both the rear end and the bull-wheel housings which seems to be a common modern-day solution to leaky seals in a variety of gear boxes in classic vehicles.
Most of the stuff on the market today is "EP" (extreme pressure), which it seems, at least on some other classic car/truck forums, there is a question of compatibility with brass in old rear ends.
So, I am seeking input as to this concern. Is there brass (yellow metals) in the rear end and/or bull-wheel housings that could be affected by the "EP" additives that are supposed to be harmful to yellow metals. If there isn't any yellow metal in either, then question becomes academic, I think......
Or is there another way to keep the lubricant where it belongs that I am missing?
My father had the wheels off many years ago to re-build the bull-wheel housings and remembers them to coming off pretty easily. Are the wheels on a straight shaft or is it tapered and will "pop” off? I have tried a solution (rather lightweight homemade puller) without success. Need to step up my game if I contiue with this approach. Seems like it would be easier to work on the treads off the tractor than on......
Probably have other questions……….